Wondering whether a smooth little stick is worth keeping on your desk? The main bone folder uses are scoring, creasing and burnishing paper, so your folds come out sharp instead of cracked.
It is one of the simplest tools in the paper cutting tools family, although its main jobs are scoring, creasing and burnishing.
| Item | Value |
|---|---|
| Classic material | Real bone, not plastic or Teflon |
| Example price of a genuine bone folder in one review | $7 |
| Shape | Rounded at one end, pointed at the other |
| Scoring tool in the pointed end | Pulled alongside a straight edge |
| Cardstock crease direction | Parallel to the paper grain, if there is one |
| Care tip | Rub with olive oil from time to time |
Figures come from a Cool Tools review and a paper scoring guide. Prices and advice can change, so check the sources before you rely on them.
What a bone folder actually is
A classic bone folder is made of real bone and resembles a fat, blunt-edged tongue depressor, rounded at one end and pointed at the other. It has a smooth, polished surface that slides over paper, though rubbing can leave a shiny mark.
Bookbinders have long used it, and card makers have adopted it because the same qualities help with any folded paper project. You will also find versions in plastic or Teflon.
The tool has no blade and no moving parts. All of its work comes from firm, even pressure on a smooth edge.
The core bone folder uses
Most of what you do with the tool falls into a short list:
- Scoring: pressing a line into paper so it bends exactly where you want.
- Creasing: flattening a fold into a sharp, square edge.
- Burnishing: rubbing paper down so it sticks flat to a surface.
- Smoothing: pushing out bubbles and wrinkles from layered paper.
Each job uses a different part of the tool. The pointed end scores, the straight sides crease, and the flat face burnishes.
How to score and fold a card
Scoring is the use most card makers reach for first. Pulling the pointed end alongside a straight edge and across the paper produces a subtle score that makes a clean fold easier.
- Mark where you want the fold and lay a ruler or other straight edge along that line.
- Press the ruler down firmly so it cannot slip.
- Draw the pointed end along the ruler in one steady stroke, staying right next to it.
- Fold the card gently by hand along the score.
- Stroke a short, straight side of the folder along the fold to flatten the rounded edge into a sharp crease.
The final step matters most. One reviewer describes folding gently by hand and then stroking the side of the bone along the score, which turns a rounded fold into a sharp crease, as described in the Cool Tools review.
Keep your pressure steady. Too light and the fold wanders, and too heavy can tear the surface of the paper.
Why scoring beats folding cold
Folding thick paper without a score often leaves a cracked, ragged line. A guide from a binding supplier says that learning to score reduces cracked and sloppy creases and gives materials a finished look, in its paper scoring guide.
The same guide says a bone folder can stand in for the dull knife it uses in its basic method. You use it the same way, simply replacing the knife.
It also notes that cardstock looks more professional when the final crease runs parallel to the paper grain, if there is one. If a sheet cracks no matter what you do, test the fold in the other direction on a scrap.
Burnishing, layering and other jobs
Once you own the tool, you start finding small jobs for it. It helps with pop-up cards, gatefolds, box nets and any project where several folds must line up. The more folds a design has, the more a crisp crease pays off.
Bone folders can also burnish paper as it is glued to cardstock, album or scrapbook pages. Rubbing the flat face over the top sheet presses it down evenly, and a bit of paper between the tool and your work protects delicate surfaces.
Your choice of adhesive changes how this works. Wet glues need a gentle touch, and our guide to the best glue for paper crafts covers which ones suit layered projects.
The tool is also handy for sharpening the edges of folded envelopes and letters. One reviewer makes two quick strokes along preliminary hand folds so edges look sharp and square.
Punched shapes sometimes curl or stick in odd places, and a light stroke can flatten them. If you use paper punches often, you will find it useful for pressing down tiny pieces.
Common mistakes to avoid
Most problems come from rushing the score. A few habits are worth building from your first card:
- Letting the ruler slip. A moving straight edge gives a crooked fold, so hold it down firmly with your free hand.
- Scoring on a hard surface. A soft mat under the sheet gives the paper somewhere to compress, so the line looks cleaner.
- Scoring the wrong side. The scored indentation should sit on the outside of the fold, with the raised ridge inside.
- Dragging in several short strokes. One steady pass looks neater than a line built from fragments.
- Pressing hard on dark paper. Heavy rubbing can leave a shiny streak, so use a lighter hand or a scrap sheet on top.
Practise on offcuts of the same cardstock before you touch the final piece. Paper varies, and a few test folds tell you how much pressure that particular sheet needs.
Choosing and looking after one
Real bone is the traditional pick. Teflon is an alternative if you want to avoid the slight luster that friction from real bone can leave on dark or coated paper.
Look for a smooth, polished surface with no chips, since a rough spot will mark the sheet. Size is a matter of taste: a shorter tool suits small cards and a longer one suits big sheets.
For care, one reviewer recommends rubbing a bone folder with olive oil from time to time to avoid flaking or brittleness. Wipe off any residue before you use it on pale paper.
If you do not own one yet, a firm, dull implement such as a pen can press a crease, according to the same scoring guide. It works in a pinch, but it is less comfortable over long projects.
Frequently asked questions
Can a bone folder cut paper?
Show answer
It can separate paper with a rough-edged cut, but it is primarily used for pressing and smoothing.
Do I need a ruler when scoring?
Show answer
Yes, unless you use a scoring board with guides. A straight edge keeps the line true, and you pull the pointed end alongside it.
Is bone better than plastic or Teflon?
Show answer
Many crafters prefer real bone. Teflon can avoid the slight shine that bone sometimes leaves on paper.
What can I use if I do not have one?
Show answer
A firm, dull implement such as a pen can press a crease. A dull knife used against a ruler is another option from the scoring guide.
