Staring at a blank sheet of paper and wondering how to make a greeting card? Cut a card base, score it, fold it, decorate the front and write inside. It takes about an hour.
This guide is part of our card making series.
| Item | Value |
|---|---|
| Most popular card-making cardstock weight | 80 lb / ~216 GSM |
| Heavy cardstock weight | 100 lb / ~270 GSM |
| Standard handmade card size | A2 |
| Standard base made from | Half of an 8 ½ inches by 11 inches sheet, folded in half |
| Slimline card size | 3.5″ x 8.5″ |
Figures come from Cricut’s cardstock guide and Altenew’s size guide. Both are retailer guides and can change, so check the source before you rely on them.
How to make a greeting card: what you need
Gather everything before you cut anything. Hunting for a ruler halfway through a fold is how paper gets smudged and creased.
A greeting card needs very little equipment. A few basic tools give you clean results, and you can add more later.
- Cardstock for the base, plus scraps for layers
- A ruler and a pencil
- A scoring tool, such as a scoring stylus or scoring wheel
- A bone folder, or the back of a spoon, to sharpen the crease
- Scissors or a craft knife with a cutting mat
- Double-sided tape, foam dots or fine-tip liquid glue
- An envelope that fits your finished card
If you are brand new to the hobby, our guide to card making for beginners covers a starter kit in more detail.
Choosing paper for the card base
Start with a quick test. Fold a scrap of the paper you plan to use, then open it and look at the outside of the crease. White cracks or a ragged edge can result from thick or dry stock, folding against the grain, or inadequate scoring.
The base needs to be sturdy enough to stand up but thin enough to fold cleanly. Cricut’s guide calls 80 lb / ~216 GSM “the most popular weight for card making”, and describes 100 lb / ~270 GSM as heavy cardstock.
Weight is measured in pounds per 500 sheets in the US and in grams per square metre (GSM) elsewhere. To convert pounds to GSM, first check the paper’s basis category; the conversions above apply to cover stock.
Heavier paper makes a stiffer card, but it also cracks more easily at the fold. That is why scoring matters, as the next sections explain.
Picking a card size
The usual route is A2, which Altenew describes as the standard card size. The standard base is made from half of a sheet measuring 8 ½ inches by 11 inches, folded in half.
Other shapes are common too. Square cards come in sizes such as 4 inches, 5 inches or 6 inches, and slimline cards measure 3.5″ x 8.5″.
Portrait cards open like a book and suit most messages. Landscape cards sit nicely on a shelf, and you can fold them at the top edge instead of the side if you want a different look.
Choose your size before you buy envelopes. A square or slimline card often needs a specific envelope, and that can cost more to post.
Step by step: cut, score and fold
Scoring is the step that separates a crisp card from a cracked one. A score line presses a groove into the paper so the fold follows it neatly.
- Cut the cardstock to the full open size of your card. Cut the sheet so it opens out to the front and back together: for a side-fold card the sheet is as wide as the front and back side by side, and for a top-fold card it is as tall as both stacked. Keep the other dimension unchanged.
- Mark the midpoint of the top and bottom edges for a side-fold card, or the left and right edges for a top-fold card.
- Score between the marks with your ruler and scoring tool, pressing firmly.
- Fold the paper along the line, with the groove on the outside of the fold.
- Press the crease flat with the bone folder, running it along the edge.
Work on a clean, flat surface and keep your hands dry. Any grease or glue on the paper shows up in the crease, and a wobbly ruler gives a crooked fold that is hard to hide later.
Cricut notes that scoring tools create a guide for the fold without breaking the paper fibers. Practise once on a scrap piece if your paper is thick.
Decorating the front
Plan the layout on the table before you glue a single piece. Move the elements around, step back, and look at the balance of colour and empty space. Empty space is not wasted, and a card with room to breathe often looks more polished than a crowded one.
Keep your first design simple. A layered panel in a contrasting colour, cut slightly smaller than the card front, already looks finished.
From there, pick whatever suits the person and the occasion:
- Stamped or hand-lettered greeting
- Die-cut shapes, or shapes cut by hand from scrap paper
- Foam dots under a focal piece for height
- Ribbon, twine, buttons or sequins
- Watercolour washes, if you use heavier paper
Altenew advises heavier cardstock, at least 300 GSM, for watercolour or mixed media. Thin card tends to buckle when it gets wet.
Stuck for a theme? Our handmade birthday card ideas are a good place to borrow layouts.
Finishing touches and common mistakes
Write your message last, once the front is dry and flat. Use pencil guidelines inside and rub them out afterwards so the lettering sits straight.
Take a last look at the whole card before you seal the envelope. Check that the fold is square, the layers are firmly stuck down, and the message is spelled correctly. Small details like these are what make a handmade card feel cared for rather than rushed.
Keep your offcuts in a box. Scraps of patterned paper, ribbon ends and leftover die-cuts become the layers and accents for your next card, which saves money and cuts waste.
Most problems are easy to avoid:
- Cracked fold: score first, and do not fold unscored thick paper.
- Warped front: use less glue, or switch to tape, and press under a heavy book.
- Card will not fit its envelope: measure the finished card before you stick on bulky pieces.
- Crooked layers: mark the centre lightly with pencil before sticking.
A short, sincere message beats a long one. Name the person, say what you wish for them or thank them for, and sign it. If handwriting worries you, write the words on scrap paper first to judge the spacing, then copy them in lightly.
Let wet glue and paint dry fully before closing the card. Otherwise wet decoration can stick to the envelope and may tear when you remove the card.
Flat embellishments post best. Anything raised may need a thicker envelope or extra padding.
Frequently asked questions
What paper is best for a homemade greeting card?
Show answer
Medium-heavy cardstock works best. Cricut’s guide calls 80 lb / ~216 GSM the most popular weight for card making, and it is thin enough to fold cleanly.
Do I really need to score the paper?
Show answer
Yes, especially with thick stock. Scoring guides the fold without breaking the fibers, which helps reduce cracking.
What size is a standard handmade card?
Show answer
A2 is described by Altenew as the standard card size. It is half of a letter-size sheet, folded in half.
Can I make a card without special tools?
Show answer
You can. A ruler, a pencil and the back of a spoon for scoring will do the job, though a proper scoring tool and bone folder give sharper creases.
